A large part of both my writing and videos on wine will inevitably point out if a producer has any certification with respect to organic grape production, sustainability and other relevant certifications (that a consumer might want to know about). Little controversy on certifications for vegan or Certified B corporations but more contention for certifications for organic, sustainable and biodynamic wines.
The topic of organic, sustainable and biodynamic practices and certification is an area for contention where there should be little to none. I have received a good number of communications, mainly criticizing me for highlighting some specific certifying bodies in my writing and videos. Some of the people criticizing me, I know and thought I was a friend and perhaps a note to me might facilitate a dialogue instead of solely criticism (for which I do not know their objection). I think consumers are trying to do their part and buy responsibly and being sensitive to environmental and related concerns for their wine purchases. Few consumers would say they want less information on wines they are buying, most would say they would welcome more information. But the vociferous ones about wine certs are not wine consumers.
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This summer, I met a self-proclaimed “expert” in organic wine production. I am interested in this subject and was interested in learning from this person’s “expertise.” There was a lack of dialogue with me on organic wine productions but more of a pontification on their very specific views. I did state concerns for all types of agriculture and all consumer products. I talked about the Paris Climate Accord and much that has been reported on this subject; countries have vowed to ramp up their pledges but few have met their pledges. I suggested this is a topic that should be addressed by signatories to help spur momentum and perhaps there was little progress being made. I was given a blank stare. I did ask if wine was the worst offender in their view—trying to get any feedback or assessment and to hone in on their main or even minor concerns. I could not assess where they were on their stance and my queries were not responded to. I also asked if wine was the only industry to look at for ecological and environmental practices in the consumer space and if it was the most egregious of all consumer products. The person just didn’t have any points they could summarize or delineate.
I was hoping for insights or even the current state of the wine industry with respect to organic and sustainable wine production. I did ask the question of costs as this person brought up technology and I asked what the price was for a small or mid-sized producer when engaging technology aides or solutions. Was the technology solution out of reach for many smaller producers? Again a blank stare. I gave up asking any other questions because anything I might ask was not worth answering from this person’s view point.
Many producers have been promoting green standards and producing wines not just for “good” business reasons (and some are not just ‘early adopters’ to use a phrase by a former professor of mine Everett Rogers) and some producers have been earth interested for some time. And some producers are not even at the table whatsoever.
The wine industry is not uniform and it is made up of thousands of producers spread through many nation-states and some parts of their industry are standing for sound green practices and some don’t share the same philosophy.
I was on a winery tour this summer and when an organic wine “expert” railed against producers who had organic and sustainable certifications. This “expert” I guess had never visited a wine producer in person and was unprofessional to them and all of the wine writers present. I have never seen such behaviour except perhaps a grade school squabble.
This individual proclaimed themselves a leading expert in the world. I found this person did not like the producers’ answers and found exceptions to everything they had to say. I do think this individual would have been unhappy even if producers stated everything this person would like to have heard. I was mortified as well as other wine writers around how this person made some very impolite remarks about the producers’ hospitality staff in addition to their viticulture. This person behaved the same way with each producer we visited.
There are sometimes very vocal and verbose individuals who like to show their “superior” knowledge and that everyone else is wrong or their pedantic beliefs are the only ones that count. Some people still don’t understand that bees love honey not vinegar–it is wise to build bridges, develop and forge friendships. I am not sure why there is contention expressed by some people on a subject matter that many people are interested in–producers, consumers, journalists, etc. and that are supportive of organic, sustainable and biodynamic practices.
I think many producers are being as sensitive as they can be and acting on their beliefs. The entire industry is not a green offender but not all producers do the same thing. I think consumers are seeking out brands that identify with their core beliefs in all consumer categories. And when I review a wine, I like any other wine writer points out the features of the wine–a pretty standard way of talking about a wine.
I have found it curious that some people feel the need to be vociferous and offensive on their very specific view of organic, sustainable and biodynamic wine production and dismiss the views of others. And I am not sure the point of alienating allies and supporters for earth friendly ways of producing wine? What is it about this category that fuels contention especially when they are with people who do support organic, sustainable and biodynamic wines?
I am not a spokesperson for any wine certifying body. I will continue to mention if a wine has any certification as part of the review process of wine features. Many consumers would prefer as much information on the wine they are drinking as possible versus less.
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