There are 377 “official’ wine grapes in the Italian Wine Grape Registry (MIPAAF) and an estimated wine grape varieties of up to 1,000 varieties. Italy’s wine footprint is huge—the largest wine producing country in the world. It is nearly impossible to not see Vitis vinifera vines somewhere even in the most casual of visits to Italy.
I look at Italy’s state of its wine grapes; it is a state of complexity of history, climate, microclimate and experience. Without Italy’s history and admixture of trade routes/paths we would not have the plethora of wine grapes that we have today. Also, in Italy there is a spirit of maintaining autochthonous varieties. Also our grape curious world has partnered to save native varieties of Italy by people seeking these wines.
I’m not sure I need to expound the lovely qualities of visiting Italy–who doesn’t know that? I prefer to stay in rentals like VRBO, AirBNB, etc. as I can select a property near where I want to be. I want to stay in a rental for simple things like a larger refrigerator, wine glasses, wine openering, sometimes a washer, ample space and you get to stay in a neighborhood.
I do stay in quite a number of rentals near train stations (not always) and I know that is not everyone’s ‘cup of tea’. But for me, I have found some train cities that are fine and others I would stay much further away in the future. I have come to find most short term rentals in Italy near a train station are much quieter than my home base in the US?!? Yes, Italian train station apartments are quieter for people who live in the building: simply better built buildings and quieter neighborhoods than my noisy San Francisco.
I don’t cook a lot when I am traveling–I may get snacks, salumi and cheeses and, of course, wine. Visitors to Italy or almost any country in Europe will be surprised at the low prices of wines. There are logistics, import and taxation costs that drive up prices in the new world.
I tend to pick up at least one-two bottles at a grocery store or Alimentari (difference is that there are many chains operating and tend to have mass market offerings in Italy and an Alimentari are specialized stores selling local/regional wines, cheeses, breads, salumi and more). I like the purposeful selection in an Alimentari and I do think the wine selections are much more thoughtful than a grocery store–they are not the lowest prices but have offerings that mass market grocers don’t have.
I have a list of all of Italy’s DOCGs – 78 and DOCs – 342 – I seek out to taste a DOC/G I have not tasted and that I know is difficult to get in the US. I would say many DOCG wines do make it to the US but the same cannot be said of the DOC wines. I keep an active list and I know I have tasted 41% of all DOC/Gs. It is via intent, self direction and curiosity that has allowed me to taste as many DOC/G wines. If I had not been as active I might have tasted half as much. But I do feel behind in tasting all of Ialy’s DOC/G wines. I do some research to see which producers are not available in the US–there are many, many good producers who are still not represented in the US.
I was in Trieste recently and was able to sample a good number of Carso Vitovska wines and additionally Picolit wines–while I have tasted both Vitovska and Picolit before I was just thrilled to see so many bottles. Depending on where I am on my Italian trek, I will try to bring at least one bottle back but If I am early in my journey I will probably not get a bottle–luggage gets way too heavy if you are doing this.
From a US point of view – shopping in Italy is much less expensive than shopping in the US. I have never purchased less expensive Prosciutto San Daniele amongst other delicacies. I do hope at some point, perhaps after I have visited all Italian regions (I have visited 90% of Italian regions) I do hope I can settle in to a place for a much longer time versus the marathon non-stop travel that I tend to do. I am very grateful that there is a country like Italy with regional cuisines and distinctly different histories layered with nuances of place. I also appreciate each time I put foot on ground that it is an adventure. My Italian improves each time I visit and I am working on a bigger Italian project that my travels will help inform.
Bottomline: seek out local wines in restaurants, wine bars, grocery and local Alimentari and wine shops. Italy and Italians are always happy to help you to engage, enjoy and experience the real Italia.
Chart your course for tasting the vast offering of Italian wines.
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