Category Prohibition

Review: Last Call: The Rise and Fall of Prohibition – Daniel Orkent – 9.3 – James Melendez

Review: Last Call: The Rise and Fall of Prohibition – Daniel Orkent

last-call_drink-boston

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Last Call is the basis of Ken Burns’s 3-part series on US prohibition of alcohol.  A well researched documentation of one of the strangest and long lasting phenomenons in US history.  While only a long and agonizing 14 years this constitutional amendment was highly ineffective and even materially damaging in ways that were certainly not predicted.  A grand failure of a constitutional amendment.

This book gives an excellent detailing that leads up to the 18th amendment and the subsequent and massive failure of this puritanical overreach.  The Anti-Saloon League as well as the Women’s Christian Temperance Union sought to have even at that time a multicultural society abide by a very Protestant movement.  The book portrays this naive movement that sought and believed that once alcohol was banned that everyone would be happy with soda and water and nothing more ever again.

The alcoholic beverage industry prior to prohibition was certainly a major contributor to government coffers that once removed from the industrial platform a national income became a necessary replacement.

Prohibition didn’t stop churches or synagogues from celebrating their services with wine nor did it stop vinification of wine grapes for familial consumption.  And questionable was the “medicinal alcohol” exception.  Operators continue as they did before though supplying slightly less alcohol than before.  Where one couldn’t get a medicinal alcohol prescription there were no worries as supply lines were hitting the US shore from nearly any and all directions.  If alcohol wasn’t hitting the shore–again no need to worry as there were bootleggers and moonshiners to fill in the gaps within borders.

Breaking of prohibition was a daily task somewhere and everyone for this 14-year period.   There was a neglect or uncaring or unconcern to enforce prohibition, considerable corruption, a plethora of organized crime and a considerable loss of revenue for government.

Fourteen years was a long time for this amendment to not be amended sooner.  The political will and soon the great depression were extra helpful in ending this prohibition.  The witness of ordinary American’s in the violent crime sprees of the twenties and even a slight easing of moralistic views as well as generational shift were also ingredients to the end of Prohibition.

What did result was several generations of American’s who drank less than they did before prohibition.  The morality on alcohol has been strong and continues to be today.  The US wine industry took a long time to restart and revitalize.  You could have bought not too long ago “California Bordeaux” or “California Burgundy” which in any view is showing a culture that didn’t care to call out the proper name of grapes in a bottle of wine.  Sometimes there was no vintage marked on a bottle.  Prohibition encouraged lesser-valued grapes who could produce large quantities per acre.  Today we are in a very different world and viticulture has improved and is examining and thoughtful.  Today we live in a world of high quality alcoholic beverages.

Consumers want to know what they are drinking; they want a vintage.  They want to know where the grapes in their wine is coming from.  These are terribly modern notions.  After all we have steadily increased to a consumption rate of over 10 liters per person per year.  Doubling in a generation.

Prohibition ends in 1933 starting with the first state to begin this unraveling Michigan and ending interesting in December 5, 1933 with Utah being the last state to call Prohibition a historical oddity.

The story does not end in 1933 and this is where both Burns and Orkent go no further.  It is as if the ramifications of the Twenty First amendment was a clean slate.  There were some states that took no action on ever repealing prohibition whatsoever: Georgia, Kansas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Nebraska, North Dakota, Oklahoma and South Dakota.  The Twenty First amendment was a let down in that states, cities, counties, special governments and created wine governing zones as they could do whatever they wanted.  And, in fact, that is what all of these governments did–they created 40,000 law, codes and even limited prohibitions.  Perhaps the most regulated product categories are wine, beer, spirits, and Sake.  Regulation took on “thou shalls” and “thou shall nots” in ever reaching laws.

Here are some examples: in some state exclusives wines of a retailer are illegal (Georgia, Idaho), some states have a mix of wet and dry counties (Texas), government owned liquor stores: Utah and Pennsylvania.  Some states in the off-premise world you can have a sale but you can’t advertise.  Ohio has a peculiar requirement of 100% total market up from vendor to retailer to consumer.  Some special government zones prohibit screw cap wines while next to them are screw cap spirits?!  There are so many odd and peculiar laws on the books and little political will to change or incentive.

I was fascinated by Orkent’s description of Joseph P. Kennedy–during the prohibition period and well into the fifities there was no references made that was a bootlegger.  Even opponents or detractors had even thought of mentioning it.  Kennedy’s father had a liquor business and Kennedy himself had a business in the legal medicinal alcohol and became a large distributor post prohibition.  While Kennedy was a wealthy person and the largest portion of his fortune was most likely made in the stock market and secondarily his liquor business.  The largest share of fortunes went to Sam Bronfman whose family today are superbly wealthy and those fortunes large made in the once mighty house of Seagrams.

Joseph Kenney was called a bootlegger during his son’s run for president and then some would be self-promoters chimed in saying he was—never mind no one made any mention prior.  A curious and lingering tale that I remembered hearing in high school as it was sold as fact.

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            A public who wants change, congressional bodies who can’t move forward because they are not sure which way the sun rises.  The great recession of 2008 help to re-focus some of the strangest laws on the books today.  After all, Pennsyvlania couldn’t wean themselves off the bottle as there was no political will to do so.   Washington State finally allowing private stores was a coup of sorts.  There are many progress points to go.

I’ll never forget one of my many visits to Napa a couple were visiting from Kansas trying to make a wine purchase to ship and they were told “we can’t ship to Kansas.”  “Okay ship to my office in Missouri” was the solution.

Recently, I saw a news article from Florida noting the state legislator approved wine kegs–a micromanagement of state legislators on these items scream out that they have must have more important business to attend to?

There is more to come in this still shadow of post-prohibition that we live under.  It will take a while to chip away at some of the more absurd 40,000 regulations.  Perhaps the absurdity of some of the laws on the books will be ignored as a need to not enforce the ridicuous.

I lived the nearly 40,000 laws in my former life as a wine marketing manager at a multi-state retailer. A great education and a great soberer as well. I tend to be optimist and a considerable portion of dismantling will happen sooner or later.   Stay tuned for another book on how ridiculous post-prohibition has been when it was thought of as being a liberating period.

This is a brief and engaging and well-written book.  Orkent writes a great and true account of something that has been accepted as a footnote in history.  I like the depth and coverage and would only wish the post-prohibition would have been more detailed, lengthy and analytical.   I have no regrets reading this book and recommend this read.
¡Salud!

http://www.jamesthewineguy.com

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Demystifying Wine…One Bottle at a Time from all wine regions around the world.

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© 2013 James Meléndez / Jaime Patricio Meléndez / James the Wine Guy— All Rights Reserved. James the Wine Guy also on Facebook, Twitter and most major social medias.

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What Would Have Happened if Prohibition Never Existed? – James Meléndez / James the Wine Guy

History is a precarious topic, at least, with respect to what it means for us now.   Not to tackle the unknowns of the entire history of everything—I do have one question for wine—where would we be today if prohibition never happened?

Ken Burns documentary on prohibition was a great way to understand what happened and it’s undoing.  There were three parts and there could have been part four and five.  The topic was not an incidental speed bump but a long lingering and still far reaching act that we still feel today.   The end of the documentary was both satisfying and yet I kept say … but wait there still more…

I am a former multi-state wine and beer marketing manager and the many obscure, obtuse and non-sensical alcohol beverage control laws linger some where between the completely absurd to the completely out-of-date.   I was watching PBS’s Nightly Business Report and they cited a mention of 40,000 ABC (alcohol beverage control) laws on the books in the 50 United States is staggering.  In many respects alcohol is more regulated the whole process and procedure for distribution of prescription drugs.

The world’s richest and largest wine market in the world is also the world’s most restrictive.  So access to wine and beer and spirits is so uneven and frustrating for the consumer.  Take a listen on any given day in a Napa Valley tasting room…. I hear something like this on each visit:

Consumer: “I got wine shipped to my home state of Kansas from another winery and now you are telling me you can’t ship it?!?!?”

Wine room employee:  “yes, that is right”

Consumer: “okay, ship to my office in Missouri”

Here is a bit of the absurd:

  • Screw cap wine illegal in some wine areas of the country
  • Wine over a certain alcohol percentage—never mind that spirits are also sold in the same state
  • A wine retailer can have a “sale” in Missouri but not advertise it.”
  • You need a permit to get a glass of wine poured in certain areas of Dallas metroplex.  I was at Hillstone’s in University Park and across the street on Preston I could go to another restaurant and not need a permit or club membership
  • State run stores?
  • Separate wine stores from food stores in New York
  • Private label or exclusive labels not legal in some states
  • And there are many, many, many more examples

But what this robs is the experience of wines from around the world to each state.  To a consumer it is a mystery of how to acquire wine from another state.  Or imported wines may be only available in a handful of states and not all.  The US is a great wine market but easily the most precarious on the planet.   There is not other good or service that has this level of scrutiny.  And the alcohol beverage is not only controlled but the least to ride on a wave of total and free market distribution.

The 21st amendment was ratified by 36 states in 1933 from April 10, 1933 (Michigan) to interestingly Utah on December 5, 1933—and that is every 6 and 2/3 days a state ratified this amendment.   And there are some states that never ratified this amendment: 1) Georgia, 2) Nebraska, 3) Kansas, 4) Louisiana, 5) South Dakota 6) North Dakota 7) Oklahoma and 8) Mississippi

If prohibition never happened and I am only speculating what would have happened in subsequent years and culminating today:

  • So many acres would not have been torn up and by that extension more old vines
  • Greater varietal exposure and experience
  • Many states would have had more experience in terms of winemaking
  • More competitive prices for larger production wines; smaller production would probably be exactly where they are today
  • Greater movement across state lines
  • A larger wine market
  • Breadth and depth of experience of winemaking in all states
  • More imports flowing into the United States
  • More exports to other nations
  • Esoterica wouldn’t be so esoterica i.e. what is viewed today as esoteric wouldn’t be such a stark contrast
  • More varietals planted today
  • The world “international varietal” would include varietals from Italy or Spain or elsewhere

But where Ken Burns left off is an opportunity for someone—perhaps myself or others to create a documentary on post-Prohibition today.

I would like to know what you think?  Drop me a line or Tweet out or Social Media shout out!

¡Salud!

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Demystifying Wine…One Bottle at a Time from all wine regions around the world.

Read more of my wine reviews:

© 2012 James Meléndez / Jaime Patricio Meléndez — All Rights Reserved. James the Wine Guy also on Facebook, Twitter and most major social medias.

Follow, subscribe, like, browse:             

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